Rabbit health

How to save rabbits from mosquitoes on the street and in rabbitry

August 7, 2019

We fight with malicious mosquitoes in rabbitry!

The electrofumigator is a simple and affordable device, which is a small electric heater. The principle of its operation is as follows: the rabbit breeder puts insecticides soaked in plates specially designed for him into the electrofumigator.

These chemicals are harmful to harmful insects, and as soon as this substance enters the air, mosquitoes die. Determining whether a plate has been used is easy enough: the old one will look almost white, and the new one will always be painted in bright color.

The service life of one plate with an insecticide is 7-8 hours.

But rabbit breeders must necessarily monitor the state of the electrofumigator, because the device may overheat, and this is fire hazard. There are also mosquito wicks that are used instead of plates.

The service life of the wick is up to thirty days. Buying drugs that are certified with a certificate will not harm the health of rabbits or the rabbit breeder.

The small radius of action of the electrofumigant is perhaps the only minus of its use (only 12 square meters in open space). Indoors, the method of using a fumigator or wick from mosquitoes shows itself twice as good. The price of this simple device is small and any rabbit breeder can quite afford it.

Paraffin or wax smoke bombs

Experienced rabbit breeders took this method of combating mosquitoes from the film industry. Smoke bombs are used there to simulate a fire. For the body of rabbits or humans, this method is not toxic and not harmful.

Smoke bombs are made of wax or paraffin material.

Unlike smoke bombs in cinema, permethrin, a chemical that is extracted from permethrin daisies, plays a very important role in rabbit breeding.

He does not act on warm-blooded creatures. Permethrin was used in ancient times: adventurers sprinkled their bed with it to protect themselves from mosquitoes.

The method of action is simple: the checker burns and, thus, carries dust with a chemical substance, covering vast areas with a thin film. Even wetlands and hard-to-reach spots will be treated.

In addition to mosquitoes, other harmful insects, such as ticks or fleas, are quickly destroyed.

Each set contains 3 smoke or wax bombs. The burning time of one piece is 7–9 minutes. Rabbit breeders set fire to them every five days, as mosquitoes lay their eggs after 2-3 days. Thus, the pests that appeared after the first treatment are destroyed. The third checker from the set is the control.

So, young mosquitoes will not have time to lay eggs, and the treated area will remain without intrusive guests for a very long time.

Processing by this method is carried out in dry weather without wind, since the rains completely remove the perimetric film. This method can also be used indoors, the effect will only be better.

The rabbit breeder will not feel a suffocating or pungent odor, it will only smell a little wax.

Photocatalytic traps

Silent, safe and very effective insect trap. A photocatalytic trap lures mosquitoes using special light. It simulates the breathing of rabbits and emits carbon dioxide.

Mosquitoes that fly up to the device are sucked by a fan into the drive, where they die from a lack of water. On an area of ​​120-150 square meters. meters photocatalytic trap works quite effectively.

On average, such traps operate eight thousand hours from a 220 V network. Rabbit breeders love this trap because it:

  • protects pets from mosquitoes;
  • highly effective in work;
  • easy to maintain and use;
  • absolutely safe for rabbits and their breeders;
  • requires little energy;
  • during operation does not make any noise.

Fighting mosquitoes in other ways

Trap lamps mosquito killers are also an effective method against annoying insects. It operates on this principle: it lures the bloodsuckers with bright light, and when they fly up, it pulls them into the receiving tray. The best mosquito capture efficiency occurs on an area of ​​50 square meters. m. The advantages of this method are:

  • power consumption of 4 watts;
  • the trap is easy to maintain;
  • does not contain chemicals;
  • harmless to rabbits;
  • works from the 220V socket;
  • besides mosquitoes, midges, flies, moths and other small flying insects are captured.

The most effective and complex mosquito control device is Mosquito Trap MT 200. The cost of such a device, as well as its effectiveness, is high.

This trap works on the principle of simulating its victim, that is, it copies all the signs that mosquitoes respond to: heat and light, the smell of exhaled air and sweat.

The set of such a trap includes a cylinder with a reducer filled with carbon dioxide. This refueling lasts about twenty days.

The device is also equipped with an ultraviolet lamp that emits light tuned to various types of mosquitoes. They fly up, and the apparatus fan sucks them in, where insects die. The Mosquito Trap MT 200 works both from a 220V network and from a car battery. According to the documentation, the radius of the area protected from mosquitoes is fifteen acres.

Another option for fighting mosquitoes is the Electrofrog integrated approach device. It is more advanced than the previous version, and its characteristics are improved.

As in the previous case, the destruction of harmful insects here occurs by simulating sweat, body temperature and exhaled air.

Confident that a warm-blooded creature is in their field of vision, mosquitoes fly up to the device and are destroyed by the electric grid, after they are sucked into the device.

Rabbit breeders put "Electrophrog" in the way of the possible emergence of mosquitoes or their clusters. The area that the device can cover is 50 acres.

Folk remedies

You can also protect your eared pets from mosquitoes without the help of sophisticated appliances or devices.

Old grandfather’s methods are probably not so effective, but they really work and will help the rabbit breeder reduce the number of annoying insects to an optimal level. Mechanical protection is the first method of folk remedies.

Many rabbit breeders use mosquito nets at the peak of the appearance of bloodsuckers. Similarly, they close the path of insects.

The mesh works well, even considering that mosquitoes can penetrate through the floor. All that is needed is to cover with a grid those places through which harmful insects can fly to rabbits.

It should be remembered that gauze is not suitable as a protective shield, since not only mosquitoes, but also air will practically not be able to penetrate. This can cause the rabbits to suffocate and overheat without the influx of fresh air and movement.

In this case, pre-made ventilation can help. Or you need to raise gauze every few hours for 3-4 minutes.

Mosquitoes cannot stand the smell of valerian, but rabbits, unlike cats, are completely indifferent to it. In emergency situations, some breeders smear their pet’s bitten noses with a variety of creams or sprays.

Of course, they will help, but you must always take into account the fact that the rabbit will lick it all and can be poisoned. Another good method is camphor oil or valerian, which evaporates slowly.

To intensify, they are heated in a water bath.

Video "How to protect rabbits from mosquitoes"

In this video you will see the results of the Mosquito Magnet Independence after a two-week use.

Mosquito for a rabbit. "Tambov Wolf"

Rabbits are often sick with myxomatosis. With this disease, the muzzle swells in the animals. The mosquitoes are the carriers of this infection. I treat my rabbits with folk remedies. I collect a camel thorn (whole bushes) and dry it under a canopy or in the attic. I start harvesting from the beginning of flowering until the plants mature.

Rabbits in our area get sick from June 10 to July 10. I boil a thorn or pour boiling water over it. I knead compound feed or bran on this broth and give it to the animals. If the rabbits are still sick, I prepare a treatment solution. I put thorns in a half-liter jar, pour boiling water over it and close it tightly with a lid.

After 2-3 hours, I filter through a funnel, where I put cotton or bandage in several layers. Then I introduce the filtrate to the rabbits in the inner part of the hind tibia. For babies under the age of three months. 2 ml, for adults. 3-5 ml. So that the bites heal faster and mosquitoes do not bite rabbits, I am preparing a tincture. I take a plastic bottle, fill it with urine.

I put the capacity in the sun so that the liquid warms up. Then the urine has a pungent, specific smell. I wet the muzzles, ears with a swab. Bites from this urine are quickly drawn out, and the smell repels mosquitoes. If rabbits are indoors, you can use ultrasonic devices or chemical agents to repel mosquitoes.

A.I.SUPRUN, Krasnodar region

Corner. for the rabbit

Sometimes the rabbit swells in the rabbits from the succulent grass. I have several animals died from this. But still, I found a way to protect the livestock. I bought charcoal tablets, ground into powder and diluted with water. With the help of my husband, who kept the rabbit lying on his back, I poured the medicine into his mouth with a spoon.

How to save rabbits from mosquitoes on the street and in rabbitry

A couple of hours after this procedure, the sick rabbit began to feel better. This method I adopted later.
But sometimes another misfortune happens: from the inside, the ears of the rabbit are covered with a crust. This means that he got a scabies mite. The animal suffers, combes its ears with its paws, loses its appetite.

Read more:  Bloating in rabbits

For treatment, a mixture of equal parts of kerosene and vegetable oil is needed. It is enough to grease it three times, and the scabies will disappear.

Raisa ZAYKOVA, Samara region, the city of Kinel

Smecta for rabbits

I’ve been breeding rabbits for several years, and during this time I developed certain rules. Although at first there were plenty of mistakes, but with experience they are becoming less and less. For example, once in one magazine I read a way to rid rabbits of bloating, began to use it in their household, and indeed, the advice turned out to be useful.

As soon as I see that some animal is lying on its side and the stomach is enlarged, I immediately breed Smecta powder and sing it from my hands. After this, the rabbit needs to be forced to run. As a rule, by the evening or the next day, everything normalizes. Rabbit breeders will agree with me how important cleanliness and quality feed are in keeping these animals.

In order to insure against infection, I sometimes add potassium permanganate and iodine to the water according to the scheme. Two days I give clean water, on the third. a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate. The next two days, again, plain water, and a day. a drop of iodine per liter of water.

Breeding rabbits, of course, is a troublesome task, but if you do not deviate from the rules: clean water, a dry cage, high-quality feed. problems and troubles appear less and less.

Alexander Vladimirovich Krivtsov, Orenburg Region, Buzuluk

My bunny

Most popular news:

Before I sat down for an article on the disinsection of rabbitry and rabbit cells, I recalled someone’s phrase: Manure is delicious. One hundred million flies cannot be wrong

In general, as you already understood, now I’ll be a nightmare for insects. Because insects for rabbits are enemies. Though small, but terribly unpleasant.

If rabbits could talk, they would always ask you to carry out pest control in rabbitry. After disinfection and disinfestation. Although I would be scared if the rabbits knew such clever words.

But we, as competent and responsible people, should.

You can also add that you need to clean under the cells more often. Although, everyone knows this of course. But not everyone does. Therefore, sin cannot be recalled. And it is better not to keep dung heaps near the rabbitry, right after cleaning somewhere. either to the cottage, or to the neighbors in the garden.

Well, I mean, the neighbors are always happy with free fertilizer, so why take it to a landfill. They themselves will come, they will clean everything, and they will also say thanks. Although this is so in our city, not every cattle is kept here. And in the village, each of this has its own good. Such a "good" is only unless the flies rejoice

And we are their chemistry, chemistry, there is nothing to rejoice here, let them fly to the neighbors.

. If you don’t have neighbors who will be happy with the pleasant smell of manure, but you don’t have the opportunity to take it out and have to keep it until you accumulate on a whole truck (well, do not actually hire a car because of a couple of hundred kilograms), and the flies fly whole squadrons , then sprinkle the dung pile on top with bleach. preferably. Once a week. just right. There will definitely not be flies and the smell of manure. But bleach will carry far. You can ask your neighbors what smell is better for them. If they still choose manure, then we apply plan B. we cancel the bleach, we release chickens Well, somehow. Take care of yourself, your rabbits,

Good luck and success in rabbit breeding!

P.S.: If the article turned out to be useful to you, click on one of the buttons of social networks. I will be very grateful to you for this. P.P.S.: Sign up for a free newsletter for beginner rabbit breeders and learn all the intricacies and secrets of raising rabbits. Together with useful material, new articles of our site will come to your e-mail. The subscription form is on the site on the right.

How to help rabbits survive the heat?

The optimal temperature for the life of rabbits is from 13 to 15 degrees. Air temperatures above 25 degrees are already considered hot for rabbits. What can I say, when in summer the air warms up to 30, 35 and even 40 degrees! In this case, heat stroke is provided to rabbits. But you can help animals.

In this article, we’ll talk about what to do if the rabbits are hot, how to deal with heat stroke of rabbits and some other nuances of summer rabbit breeding.

Rabbits and heat are difficult concepts

First, a few words about why rabbits so badly tolerate the heat. These animals, like most others, do not sweat.

Their only cooling method is ears that give off heat to the environment, but this is catastrophically small. In the wild, rabbits live in holes, and in the heat they do not even get out of their shelter.

And we provide them with cramped cells where you can’t hide from stuffiness, from the heat generated by your own body and the body of your “brothers”

How to save rabbits from mosquitoes on the street and in rabbitry

Heat for rabbits is not only dangerous by heat or sunstroke. At this time, the immunity of animals is totally reduced and the rabbits begin to hurt.

In the heat, chronic diseases are manifested, eared with ease “pick up” everything that mosquitoes, flies and ticks carry.

Therefore, in addition to combating the high temperature in rabbitry, which will be discussed below, it will not be superfluous inject rabbits with immunostimulants (Katozal, Vitozal, Gamavit, etc.)

Also in the heat of the rabbits mucous membranes dry out. they begin to sneeze, rub their noses, snot can begin. In this case, lubrication of rabbit noses with glycerin, in which iodine is diluted (10 drops of iodine per bottle), helps a lot.

Most suffer from heat rabbit. nursing or pregnant, so try to minimize the number of times of summer in the summer.

What to do in the heat of rabbits?

Unfortunately, there is no miracle pill for the heat, so helping rabbits will be, rather, in a package of measures to create comfortable conditions.

Things like “build rabbitry from the north”, “put portable cages in the shade”. and we will not write for granted.

We will not rebuild rabbitry, everything that is possible has long been removed from the scorching sun, but this does not save the animals.

So, rabbits and heat: what to do?

Plastic ice bottles. Water. in bottles, bottles. overnight in a freezer, and then in a cage for 1-2 pieces. Change water bottles as ice breaks up. The intense heat, fortunately, lasts only a few hours, so 2-3 "batches" per day will be enough.

Do not be afraid, the rabbits will not get sick and will not get too cold. on the contrary, you will be surprised when they lie down near this bottle or try to lean on their belly. Such bottles can also be put in cages with newborn babies, just away from the rabbits, and such a measure can save lives for their nursing mother, who is at risk.

And this is not an exaggeration.

Cold batteries. If anyone does not know, these are small containers filled with a special substance with high heat capacity. They are often used in portable refrigerators, taken on the road so that food and drinks stay fresh longer.

They come in different volumes, but for rabbit needs it is better to take small ones. 200-400 grams each, because you will often freeze them (and rabbits with your body will defrost them).

Such devices cost (approximately) from 30 to 80 hryvnias (70-200 rubles), depending on the volume, manufacturer and filler. The principle of operation is the same as that of the bottles, but the batteries keep the cold much longer.

Animals literally lie bellies on saving batteries and lick their tongues with ice. Of course, an expensive way, and work with freezing will add to you, but there really is an effect.

Water treatments. To save rabbits from heat, water helps, whose wonderful property is to cool the surface from which it evaporates.

People take advantage of this. they rush into the river or shower in the summer, but deprive rabbits of this possibility because of fears such as stress, cold water But pay attention. rabbits often turn containers with cage water directly at themselves, prying the bowl with their front paws.

Therefore, in addition to hanging wet tissues in rabbitries or in open-air cages, you can directly “process” rabbits in the heat water:

1) Bathe them in not too cold water. At the same time, the whole body and ears of the animal can be immersed in water so that only the muzzle remains above the surface. 2-3 minutes of cooling baths will be enough to make life easier

2) to spray rabbits, mainly ears

3) water the cells from the hose, but only if they are not in the room. In the rabbitry from such irrigation, a swamp is quickly formed on the floor. a paradise for mosquito larvae and other insects. A less radical way with a hose is to attach a drip irrigation nozzle to it, which gardeners use for irrigation. In this case, a very fine spray is obtained.

Read more:  What diseases can rabbits have?

tile, cobblestones can be placed in the shaded parts of the cage. this will help rabbits to overcome the heat to a small extent. Not a very effective method, but better than doing nothing.

rabbit fans. If there is such an opportunity. you can put the fan on a cold airflow. But remember that rabbits do not tolerate drafts, so try not to direct airflows directly at the animals.

let’s get more vegetables and water. In hot weather, the rabbit body suffers from dehydration, that is, dehydration. Succulent feeds will significantly help keep the water balance normal.

And, of course, the water in the rabbit’s cages should always be fresh and cool. change it several times a day, use larger containers than in the cold season (an adult rabbit can drink 1-1.5 liters of water per day!)

move rabbits into an open-air cage. Aviary should be shaded. trees, awning. You can dig a few small holes for rabbits. animals will hide in them from the heat.

But, despite the apparent simplicity, this method has its drawbacks: rabbits can dig out the "tunnels", where it is difficult to get them; cleaning rabbit feces, food leftovers from holes is problematic, and in the heat this fetid rot can become a hotbed of disease.

Do not abandon this method. you just need to study it in more detail (for example, here).

Shear rabbits. Rabbits who have reached 4 months of age can be mowed in heat, especially when it comes to downy breeds.

During the autumn molt period, the hair will grow back, but in the summer it will significantly help save the rabbits from the heat.

It is not difficult to cut rabbits: comb the animal, and with the help of a scallop and scissors with non-sharp ends, start cutting from the back, then the sides, belly (the belly is not cut in females). You can still trim the tail and the "forelock", the ears and muzzle do not touch.

Heat stroke in rabbits: symptoms and first aid

In the heat, the rabbits stretch out to their full length, tumble down to the side. this is a familiar picture. But if you notice that the animal’s breathing is superficial, very frequent, the mouth is open, the mucous membrane turns red around the eyes, it weakly reacts to external stimuli. rabbit heat stroke. Urgent need to save him.

Inappropriate behavior can precede this: the rabbit is excited, scouring the cage, trying to find a comfortable place, then calms down, after which it starts running and worrying again, eating badly. Such a rabbit should be quickly placed in a cool room.

But if heat stroke in rabbits did happen, we take urgent measures, otherwise his heart simply can’t stand it.

We transfer the sick animal to a cooler room (but not radically, not to the cellar), put it on a damp cloth and begin to cool the head with a cloth moistened with cool water. Now the main task is to cool the brain. Wet a rag every three minutes, moisten the ears. You need to drink a rabbit.

If he doesn’t want to drink or cannot, drink from a syringe. A rabbit can be considered saved if its body temperature drops to 39 degrees, and breathing normalizes.

Rabbits and heat are a real challenge for the rabbit breeder. We hope that our article at least a little told you what to do in the heat of the rabbits. Healthy ears for you!

Tatyana Kuzmenko, member of the editorial board of the correspondent of the online publication AtmAgro. Agroindustrial Bulletin "

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Myxomatosis in rabbits, symptoms, treatment and vaccination of rabbits

Rabbit myxomatosis is an acute viral disease. All domestic and wild rabbits are susceptible to the disease. This disease is transferred from sick rabbits to healthy ones through the bites of mosquitoes, fleas and possibly other ectoparasites. They transmit the pathogen mechanically through the piercing-sucking type oral apparatus.

Accordingly, epizootics (mass diseases of rabbits) are noted during periods of mass breeding of carriers. These periods usually fall in the spring and fall.

But the disease can occur at any time of the year, because under different weather conditions mosquitoes can be more or less, regardless of the season.

In addition, mosquitoes are hatched all year round in the basements of urban houses in warmth and humidity.

You may think that in the apartment the rabbit is protected from infectious diseases, but this is not so. Rabbit fleas, various lice, woolly eaters and other harmful arthropods capable of transmitting myxomatosis can be introduced through sawdust, hay, and care items.

The incubation period of the disease is an average of 5-7 days. That is, the symptoms of the disease manifest themselves mainly 5-7 days after the bite of the mosquito carrier. There is an acute serous-purulent conjunctivitis, causing sharp swelling of the eyelids and conjunctiva.

The eyelids can stick together from a significant amount of purulent exudate. Within a few days, solid subcutaneous tumors form in the head, anus, and external genitalia. In males, orchitis (inflammation of the testes) is observed.

14-18 days after infection, the rabbits die.

It should be borne in mind that earlier diagnosis of myxomatosis by clinical signs was not very difficult to identify, since this disease has very characteristic signs and pathological changes, however, in recent years, a large proportion has been attributed to latent forms of myxomatosis, virus carrying, especially in epizootic foci. The tendency for the evolution of the pathogen of the myxomatosis virus with a predominance of non-typical forms, such as nodular (nodular), respiratory, abortive, atypical and erased, also began to emerge.

It was found that infectious stomatitis is often associated with myxomatosis. The first signs of infectious stomatitis are detected during a change in primary teeth on the 14-21st day of life. With a mixed infection, the disease is more severe. There are many other diseases that can complicate the course of myxomatosis.

If a disease is detected on farms, sick rabbits must be destroyed, the premises must be disinfected, and healthy rabbits quarantined and vaccinated.

We have developed our own methods for the treatment of myxomatosis. With their use, the disease lasts longer, but in a milder form and in most cases ends in recovery.

Prevention is very simple. vaccination 2 times a year from one and a half months of age, every March and September.

When young animals are weaned at the age of 30-45 days, rabbits are vaccinated five to seven days after being laid off by their mothers, and revaccination of young animals is carried out at 2.5-3 months of age, followed by vaccination every six months.

In some cases, vaccination is considered justified every three months. According to the instructions, no vaccination gives 100% protection, but significantly reduces the risk of contracting an infectious disease.

Also, as a prophylaxis, repellents should be used in the apartment and rabbits should be treated against ectoparasites, even if the animal is not on the street and does not come into contact with other animals. Hay and sawdust for the rabbit must be clean and high quality.

If nevertheless your pet has suspicious symptoms, consult a veterinarian specialist as soon as possible. Treatment will be more effective if you start it at an early stage of the disease.

Head physician
Veterinary clinic "Umka"
LATSAPNEVA
Yana Alexandrovna

For any questions regarding the health of your pets
You can contact our clinic at:
st. Novomostitskaya, 2, tel: 353-35-34 from 9.00 to 21.

00
Ave. Minsk, 10, tel: 353-35-33 from 9.00 to 21.00
from 14.00 to 15.00 sanitary hour
Veterinary clinic "UMKA"
www.umka-vet.com.

Fight against rodents and insects in rabbitry

Mice, rats are the main carriers of infectious diseases, therefore, they should not be allowed to appear in rabbitry, on a farm, in a barn.

In order to prevent, weed weeds must be weeded in a timely manner and thin out shrubs overgrown with rabbits. It is equally important to regularly remove garbage, old equipment, unnecessary equipment from the site. Premises in which cages with animals are placed should be regularly repaired. Particular attention should be paid to feed storage.

Rodents not only spoil food and spread diseases, but also eat rabbits; their presence negatively affects the condition of full-aged animals, especially during pregnancy and lactation. The rabbits become restless and angry, they can have an abortion. The appearance of rodents on the farm sometimes becomes the reason for females eating their rabbits.

To combat rodents, all kinds of poisonous agents have been developed in various forms: powder, sticky mass, foam. Rodents, visiting places treated with poisons, or running through poisonous coatings, carry away particles of these products on their legs and hair, then swallow them when washed and die.

For the preparation of poisonous baits, penocoumarin, zoocoumarin, ratindane, as well as zinc phosphide, sodium fluoride, and a herbal remedy such as red sea onions are usually used. To prepare 1 kg of poisoned bait from animal feed or flour, 20-30 g of zoocoumarin or ratindane is required. They are introduced into food for mice and rats with constant stirring.

You can additionally add 20-30 g of granulated sugar to the poisonous mixture and mix thoroughly.

Water bait is effective in fighting rodents if there are no additional sources of drinking. It is prepared on the basis of a 1% solution of zoocoumarin sodium salt, which is added to 1 liter of tap water in a volume of 5-7 ml. 10-15 g of granulated sugar can be added to the working solution.

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Baits of 50-200 g are placed in special feeders or bait boxes, which are placed in places inaccessible to other animals for 2-3 days, sometimes masking with brushwood.

Wheat grains, sunflower seeds, cereals, bread crumbs, minced meat (meat or fish), meat and bone meal, powdered milk are most often used as a basis for baits. When preparing the bait, it is important to strictly observe personal safety measures.

To do this, you need to allocate a separate place (table), the necessary utensils. Work should only be done with rubber gloves and a gauze bandage on the face.

You can catch mice with the help of milk bottles. They are placed near the mink of rodents, and the edges of the neck are smeared with kefir. The mouse, examining the neck of the bottle, slides and falls to the bottom. Less commonly, a mixture of flour and alabaster is prepared to control rodents. Water is placed in a plate next to the mixture.

Rats and mice after eating the mixture drink water and die soon, since the alabaster hardens when it interacts with water and the contents of the intestine. there is an obstruction of the digestive tract. However, the basis in the fight against rodents is everyday preventive measures.

In the absence of the above funds, for example penocoumarin, you can prepare a sticky mass of solidol or nigrol and 1% zoocoumarin. The mixture is thoroughly mixed so that the zoocoumarin powder does not have time to settle, and applied to the desired area. It is best to apply poisonous coatings on strips of thick paper, roofing paper, roofing felt.

Such strips can be moved from place to place along the movement of rodents. Rodents die on the 5th day after daily contact with poisons during this period. For processing holes, the powder is injected from polymer bottles with elastic walls.

As a prophylactic, repellents are used. substances that repel rodents with their smell and taste. The carriers of a number of diseases, especially myxomatosis, are mosquitoes and flies.

To repel mosquitoes, mosquitoes, you can periodically arrange smokes with the help of small bonfires or smoke dies. The inner walls of the rooms and cells are treated with 0.5% chlorophos at the rate of 100 ml / m3.

The outer walls of the rooms and cells are treated with a 0.5% solution of trichloromethaphos-3 or the same chlorophos at the rate of 100 ml / m3. Obligatory treatment of gutters, dunghills, settlers located near the habitat of rabbits.

They are irrigated with 0.1% trichloromethaphos-3 emulsion at the rate of 3-5 l / m3, or 0.5% emulsion from 65% polychlorpinene concentrate in the same volume, or 10% naphthalisole or creolin emulsion.

Sink pits are covered with bleach every 5 days at the rate of 1 kg / m2. Flies are destroyed with the help of baits: a 0.1% aqueous solution of chlorophos with the addition of 2-5% sugar or skim milk. Tanks with baits are placed on every 60-100 m2 of the premises. Rabbit breeders have long used sulfur in the fight against insects and ticks.

Before processing her rabbitry, animals must be transferred to another room. Seal or caulk rabbit slots, then pour sulfur on an iron sheet or pan and put on the heater, leaving the rabbit, close the door tightly. Usually, after 2–3 hours, all insects die.

When processing premises in this way, fire safety measures must be observed.

Disinfection Disinfection must be carried out 2 times a year. in the spring and autumn, as well as in the event of a contagious disease in the household. Its purpose is the neutralization or destruction of the active principle of the disease.

It provides for disinfection (except for external surfaces, objects in contact with animals) walking platforms, containers for storing manure. Before disinfecting the surface of the inventory, equipment is cleaned of dirt, debris, fluff, litter.

Most often, when disinfecting rabbitry walls and floors, a solution of freshly slaked lime is used. Cells, individual wooden parts of rabbitry are disinfected with solutions of formalin, creolin, caustic soda, lysol. Metal cells, their individual parts (gratings, mesh floors. in combined cells) are burned with a blowtorch.

In aerosol disinfection (in the presence of rabbits), solutions are used: lactic acid at a rate of 20 mg per 1 m3, hydrogen peroxide at a rate of 15 mg per 1 m3 and can withstand 20-30 minutes.

Methods for preparing disinfectants: 2% formalin. 1 cup formalin per 1 bucket of cold water; 2% caustic soda. 200 g per 1 bucket of hot water; caustic soda. 200 g of soda per 1 bucket of hot water; 5% creolin. 1/2 liter per bucket of water; (The consumption of the above disinfectants is 1 liter per 1 m2 of floor and wall area.

) lye. 2 kg of wood ash per 1 bucket of hot water; the solution should be boiled for 2 hours, then allowed to stand, drain the water, dilute in 4 buckets of water and put again to boil, apply hot; 1, 2. and 5% solutions of bleach. for the disinfection of wooden objects, parts of cells, the territory of the site; chloramine B. an aqueous solution in a ratio of 1:10.

Heated solutions (up to 50-60 ° C) are more effective than cold ones. To care for animals, you must purchase special robes or overalls and shoes, preferably rubber (except for the winter season). Periodically, outerwear is washed and disinfected, shoes are washed and also disinfected.

Before entering the room where the rabbits are kept, you need to put a mat moistened with a disinfectant solution.

Rabbit breeders.ru

In one of my previous articles, I mentioned that among all farm animals, rabbits are perhaps the most tender and whimsical animals, therefore, when breeding them, the rabbit breeder should always follow the rules of personal and sanitary hygiene.

Rabbit breeder personal hygiene

First of all, every time you go to the rabbits, and on returning from the farm you need to carefully wash hands with laundry soap. The toilet should not be used because it remains a persistent smell, which is especially annoying for pregnant and lactating rabbits.

For this reason, it is extremely undesirable to climb into the nest after an okrol if the hands of the rabbit breeder smell of tobacco, gasoline, perfumes or other pungent odors.

Also at the entrance to the rabbitry, it is desirable to lay a disinfectant rug, or more often wash shoes, so as not to infect any rabbits.

Rabbitry harvesting

Since rabbits are very sensitive to the purity of the inhaled air, remove the manure in closed rabbitry should daily. My cells are under a canopy and have mesh floor in feed compartments, therefore, manure does not accumulate in them and the farm does not require such frequent cleaning.

Rabbit watering hygiene

Although rabbits are known as very clean animals, over the years of practice I got the impression that throwing their “balls” into a drinking bowl with fresh water is a matter of honor for them. over, sometimes they are not even stopped by the fact that it is screwed high enough from the floor.

Naturally, dirty water quickly starts sour and rabbits, after drinking it, often start vilify.

In order to prevent this, you should change the water and wash the drinkers as often as possible, but you can set aside time and equip the farm with automatic drinkers (made, for example, from inverted bottles).

Rabbit feeding hygiene

In addition to the fact that the weed must be dried before serving, the rabbit will also be useful rinse her under running water, especially if it is chamfered near a roadway or body of water. Also, do not give rabbits dirty and rotten vegetables. All feeds are placed in special feeders attached to each cage, and not on the floor.

If during the distribution in the feeders the acidified residues of not eaten food are visible, they must be scrape off.

Rabbit cell disinfection

Before transplanting rabbits from one cage to another, it is advisable to disinfect the latter. This is especially necessary if the rabbits that lived in it before suffered from some kind of infection. To do this, the cell is well scorched blowtorch, and then whiten the floor and walls lime.

If the rabbit is sick

On any farm, constant monitoring of the condition of the animals is required, as this helps in the early stages to extinguish the focus of most diseases.

That is why, if you notice that before an active rabbit sits stupidly and eats poorly, he has a wet muzzle, a muddy look, etc.

, such a suspicious animal should drop off immediately in a separate cage away from the rest of the livestock until the cause of the disease is clarified.

And yet, in cages with a mesh floor, such a nuisance happens when a rabbit, having landed its hind foot in a mesh cell, begins to break out with all its might and cripple itself with a wild squeal.

So, in order to pull out a wedge-clawed foot, it is necessary to stick your hand into the cage and gently press the fingers of the foot of the injured rabbit to his lower leg. The wedge will thus narrow, and it will not be difficult to free the rabbit.

True, it happens that by this time the animal has time to wipe the paw up to blood, then I treat him with wounds green or Vishnevsky ointment.

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